Salvatore Ferragamo不朽的傳奇1928-2008_時尚

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Salvatore Ferragamo不朽的傳奇1928-2008

2008年04月01日 10:35鳳凰時尚【大中小】【列印】

Evolving Legend 1928-2008

不朽的傳奇1928-2008

June 5, 1898 Salvatore Ferragamo is born in Bonito, in the province of Avellino, the 11th of 14 children.

1898年6月5日 薩爾瓦托勒·菲拉格慕出生於阿韋利諾(Avellino)省的Bonito鎮，在14個孩子中排行11。

1910 At age 11, he starts as an apprentice to a shoemaker in Naples.

1910年 11歲時，他在那不勒斯（Naples）當上了鞋匠的學徒。

1912 Salvatore Ferragamo opens a small shop in Bonito and makes made-to-measure shoes for local ladies.

1912年薩爾瓦托勒·菲拉格在Bonito鎮開辦一家小店，為當地女性量身訂做鞋品。

1914 He emigrates to America to join one of his brothers who works in a shoe factory in Boston making “Queen Quality” shoes. Salvatore works there for 15 days.

1914年他移居美國，和哥哥一起在波士頓一家製造“女王品質”鞋品的鞋廠工作。薩爾瓦托勒僅在那裏工作了15天。

1919 He goes to another brother in Santa Barbara, California, and lives at 719 California Street. Ferragamo opens a repairs and made-to measure shoe shop at 1033 State Street, Santa Barbara. He starts working for the American Film Co. and studies human anatomy at the University of California.

1919年他投靠在加利福尼亞聖芭芭拉（Santa Barbara）的另一位哥哥，並住在加利福尼亞街719號。菲拉格慕在聖芭芭拉國家街（State Street）1033號開辦了一家修理和量身訂製鞋品的商店。他開始為美國電影公司（American Film Co.）工作並在加利福尼亞大學學習人體解剖學。

1921 After a car accident in which his brother Elio is killed and he breaks a leg, Salvatore Ferragamo patents a traction system for bones in the foot and leg.

1921年他和哥哥Elio遭遇車禍，Elio不幸喪生，而他也腿部骨折，隨後薩爾瓦托勒·菲拉格慕註冊了足部和腿部骨骼牽引系統的專利權。

1923 He opens the Hollywood Boot Shop in Boulevard Las Palmas, Hollywood, frequented by film actresses.

1923年他在好萊塢Las Palmas大道開辦好萊塢鞋店（Hollywood Boot Shop），成為電影女明星經常光顧的地方。

1924 He makes shoes for the stars of Cecil B. De Mille’s “The Ten Commandments” and Raoul Walsh’s “The Thief of Baghdad.”

1924年他為塞西爾·B·戴米爾（Cecil B. De Mille）執導的電影《十誡》（“The Ten Commandments”）和拉烏爾·沃爾什（Raoul Walsh）執導的電影《巴格達竊賊》（“The Thief of Baghdad”）中的影星製鞋。

1927 He makes shoes for the stars of Cecil B. De Mille’s “The King of Kings.” He also comes back to Italy where he opens his first laboratory in Via Mannelli 57, where he produces women’s shoes initially reserved just for the american business.

1927年他為塞西爾B德米爾執導的影片《萬王之王》（“The King of Kings”）中的影星製作鞋品。同年他重返義大利，並在Mannelli大街57號開辦了他的第一間實驗室，在那裏製造女鞋，最初僅供美國業務。

1928 The first Salvatore Ferragamo company starts.

1928年第一家薩爾瓦托勒·菲拉格慕公司創立。

1930 Futurist painter Lucio Venna produces Ferragamo’s first advertising and designs the label for Ferragamo’s creations.

1930年未來派畫家 Lucio Venna完成了菲拉格慕的首張廣告海報，併為菲拉格慕產品設計標誌。

1933 The firm is forced into bankruptcy.

1933年公司被迫申請破產。

1934 Ferragamo rents new premises in Palazzo Spini Feroni in the middle of Florence.

1934年菲拉格慕租借位於佛羅倫薩城中的Palazzo Spini Feroni古堡中作為新的辦公場所。

December 13th, 1937 Salvatore is granted the first patent in the history of fashion, for a cork wedge heel, and the first magazine article on Ferragamo appears in American Vogue.

1937年12月13日 薩爾瓦托勒憑藉軟木楔形鞋跟獲得時尚界歷史上的第一項專利；首篇關於菲拉格慕的報道登上美國《Vogue》雜誌。

1938 He buys Palazzo Spini Feroni for 3,400,000 lire and opens the Florence store, in the same building, and stores in London (Old Bond Street) and Rome (Via Condotti).

1938年他以340萬里拉購下Palazzo Spini Feroni古堡並在該大樓開設了佛羅倫薩店，同年位於倫敦舊龐德街（Old Bond Street）的倫敦店和位於羅馬康多提大道（Via Condotti）的羅馬店相繼開業

1939 He opens a store in Milan (Via Montenapoleone) and buys Villa Il Palagio, in Majano, as a residence.

1939年菲拉格慕位於米蘭蒙特拿破侖大街（Via Monte Napoleone）的米蘭店開張，並買下Majano的Il Palagio別墅作為寓所。

November 9th, 1940 Ferragamo marries Wanda Miletti; they have six children - Fiamma, Fulvia, Giovanna, Leonardo, Ferrucio and Massimo.

1940年11月9日 菲拉格慕與蔓達·米勒蒂女士結婚；育有六個孩子，分別是菲安瑪、富爾維婭、喬瓦娜、萊昂納多、費魯齊奧和馬西莫。

1947 Ferragamo receives in Dallas the Neiman Marcus Award for his “invisible” sandal.

1947年菲拉格慕憑藉“隱形”涼鞋在達拉斯（Dallas）榮獲尼門馬克斯獎（Neiman Marcus Award)。

1948 He opens on Park Avenue, New York.

1948年他在紐約林蔭大道(Park Avenue)開店。

1949 He creates the first calf and pony-skin bag. Pietro Annigoni paints Salvatore Ferragamo’s portrait.

1949年他設計了首款使用小牛皮和小馬皮的皮包；皮埃特羅·阿尼戈尼（Pietro Annigoni）為薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕先生畫像

1950 Moda Imports is set up in New York to distribute Ferragamo products in America.

1950年在紐約開辦Moda Imports公司，開始在美國經銷菲拉格慕產品。

February 12th, 1951 Ferragamo takes part in the first Italian fashion show, in Florence, with a sandal (“Kimo”) for the Schuberth models.”

1951年2月12日 菲拉格慕攜為名模Schuberth設計的“Kimo”涼鞋出席佛羅倫薩舉辦的首場義大利時尚展。

1954 For the actress Audrey Hepburn, Ferragamo creates one of his most famous styles: a suede ballerina with a strap.

1954年菲拉格慕為女明星奧黛麗·赫本設計名鞋：鑲有皮帶的絨革芭蕾舞鞋

1955 Florentine painters design the first Ferragamo silk scarves, forerunners of those produced in the Seventies.

1955年佛羅倫薩畫家設計了第一款菲拉格慕圍巾，試樣于七十年代投產。

1956 Ferragamo creates an 18-karat gold sandal for an Australian customer, travels to Australia and is interviewed by Australian press and radio.

1956年菲拉格慕為一位澳大利亞顧客設計了18k黃金涼鞋，並飛往澳大利亞接受當地報刊和電臺採訪

1957 The autobiography of Salvatore Ferragamo, “Shoemaker of Dreams,” is published in London.

1957年薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕先生的自傳《夢想的鞋匠》(The Shoemaker of Dreams)在倫敦出版。

1958 Salvatore Ferragamo creates a bag where for the first time appears the “Gancino” accessory.

1958年薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕先生設計了首款帶有“Gancino” 配飾的提包。

1959 The first collection of Giovanna by Ferragamo clothing for Lord & Taylor is designed by Giovanna Gentile Ferragamo, the second daughter of Salvatore and Wanda Ferragamo.

1959年薩爾瓦托勒和蔓達菲拉格慕夫婦的二女兒喬凡娜·菲拉格慕女士為 Lord & Taylor 百貨公司設計的首個Giovanna by Ferragamo服飾系列。

8 Agosto, 1960 Salvatore Ferragamo dies in Poveruomo, Italy. Wanda Ferragamo takes over as head of the company. Their 17-year-old daughter, Fiamma, manages the women’s shoe business.

1960年8月8日 薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕先生在義大利Poveruomo去世，蔓達菲拉格慕女士接管公司。他們17歲的大女兒菲安瑪掌管女鞋業務。

1965 Women’s ready-to-wear collections by Giovanna Ferragamo start showing twice a year in the Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti.

1965年喬瓦娜·菲拉格慕女士設計的女式成衣系列在Palazzo Pitti宮白廳展覽，每年兩次。

1965 Production begins on Ferragamo bags, headed by Fiamma Di San Giuliano Ferragamo.

1965年開始生產箱包，由菲安瑪·菲拉格慕女士負責管理

1967 Fiamma Ferragamo receives the Neiman Marcus award for creativity in footwear in Dallas.

1967年菲安瑪菲拉格慕女士以其製鞋創意在達拉斯榮獲尼門馬克斯獎。

1970 The company begins producing men’s shoes and clothing, to be expanded in the Eighties by Leonardo Ferragamo. Salvatore Ferragamo products started to be sold through department stores in Japan.

1970年公司開始生產男鞋和男式服裝，進入八十年代後由萊昂納多菲拉格慕先生負責拓展業務；薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕公司的產品開始進入日本百貨商店銷售。

1971 Regular production of silk scarves and later ties, in Milan, begins under the direction of Fulvia Visconti Ferragamo.

1971年在富爾維婭韋斯孔蒂菲拉格慕女士的領導下，公司開始在米蘭正式生產絲巾以及後來的領帶。

1974 Ferragamo’s store opens on Fifth Avenue.

1974年菲拉格慕第五大道（Fifth Avenue）店開業

1978 Fiamma creates one of the brand’s most famous shoes, the Vara.

1978年菲安瑪女士設計了菲拉格慕最負盛名的鞋品之一——Vara女鞋.

1985 A Salvatore Ferragamo exhibition opens in Palazzo Strozzi in Florence. It is the first retrospective for a fashion brand in Italy.

1985年佛羅倫薩的斯特羅茲宮（Palazzo Strozzi）舉辦薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕展覽會。這是首場義大利時尚品牌的回顧展。

1986 Ferragamo Hong Kong is established to distribute products in Asia.

1986年創建菲拉格慕香港公司，開始在亞洲經銷菲拉格慕商品。

1987 A Salvatore Ferragamo retrospective opens at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and becomes the most visited exhibition of that year.

1987年薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕回顧展在倫敦維多利亞阿伯特博物院（Victoria and Albert Museum）開幕，並成為當年參觀人數最多的展覽。

1989 Expansion starts in Hong Kong with the opening of a store in the Mandarin Hotel.

1989年菲拉格慕在文華酒店(Mandarin Hotel) 開設商店，開始拓展香港業務。

1990 The top-handle bag with the famous “Gancino” decorative motif is created.

1990年配有著名“Gancino”裝飾圖案的手提包誕生

1992 Ferragamo Ladies Boutiques Japan - that later in 2000 became Ferragamo Japan - is established in Tokyo to distribuite products there.

1992年在東京創辦菲拉格慕女式精品專賣店（于2000年改名為菲拉格慕日本店），開始在日本銷售產品

1992 A retrospective on the company opens in the Los Angeles County Museum.

1992年公司回顧展在洛杉磯城市博物館舉行。

1994 Ferragamo opens in Shanghai, at Shanghai Maison Mode, marking the start of expansion in China.

1994年菲拉格慕上海美美百貨（Shanghai Maison Mode）店開業，標誌著中國業務的起步。

1995 A Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, dedicated to footwear and the history of the company, opens in Palazzo Spini Feroni.

1995年旨在展示公司鞋品和歷史的薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕博物館在Palazzo Spini Feroni古堡建立。

1996 Ferragamo makes shoes for Madonna when she plays the in “Evita”.

1996年菲拉格慕為《貝隆夫人》（“Evita”）中女主角的扮演者麥當娜（Madonna）製造鞋品。

1998 For the centenary of the birth of Salvatore Ferragamo, a retrospective opens in Tokyo (Sogetsu Kai Foundation) and the first Competition for Young Footwear Designers is announced.

1998年薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕先生百年誕辰，公司在東京的Sogetsu Kai Foundation舉辦回顧展，並且宣佈舉行首屆青年鞋品設計師大賽。

1998 Ferragamo enters a licensing agreement with eyewear maker Luxottica.

1998年菲拉格慕與眼鏡製造商Luxottica簽署授權生產協議。

1998 Salvatore Ferragamo Pour Femme is launched.

1998年薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕Pour Femme女士香水上市

September 28th, 1998 Fiamma di San Giuliano Ferragamo dies after a long illness.

1998年9月28日 菲安瑪菲拉格慕女士久病去世。

1999 Salvatore Ferragamo Pour Homme is launched.

1999年薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕Pour Homme男士香水上市。

2001 Ferragamo perfumes are produced and distributed by the company’s own fragrance division.

2001年菲拉格慕旗下的香水分公司負責生產並銷售菲拉格慕香水產品

2002 A Ferragamo flagship opens in Seoul.

2002年菲拉格慕旗艦店在首爾開業。

2003 Ferragamo opens its flagship in Ginza, in Tokyo.

2003年菲拉格慕旗艦店在東京銀座開業。

2003 Ferragamo expands on Fifth Avenue, christening a larger flagship. The company launches watches in 150 boutiques.

2003年菲拉格慕第五大道店擴建，併為規模進一步擴大的旗艦店並舉行開業儀式。同年公司在150家專賣店中推出腕錶。

2004 Made-to-measure men’s “Tramezza” shoes are introduced. A Ferragamo flagship opens in Osaka, Japan.

2004年推出量身定制的 “Tramezza” 男鞋。菲拉格慕旗艦店在日本大阪開業。

2005 To celebrate the 10th anniversary of the opening of the first store in Beijing, Ferragamo shows its men’s and women’s collections in the Forbidden City.

2005年為慶祝北京的首家菲拉格慕專賣店開業十週年，菲拉格慕公司在故宮展示男女服飾系列。

March 23rd, 2006 The exhibition “Walking Dreams” opens in the Museo de Bellas Artes in Mexico City.

2006年3月23日 “Walking Dreams”展覽會在墨西哥美術博物館（Museo de Bellas Artes）舉行。

September 2006 A new fragrance for women, F by Ferragamo, is launched.

2006年9月 菲爾格慕F系列（F by Ferragamo）女士香水全新上市。

October 8th, 2006 Ferragamo is slated to receive the Walk of Style Award in Beverly Hills, in celebration of its work in films.

2006年10月8日 為紀念菲拉格慕對電影業的傑出貢獻，菲拉格慕公司在比佛利山莊 (Beverly Hills)榮膺Walk of Style 獎。

December 5, 2006 Re-opening of the Museum Salvatore Ferragamo in a new location on the basement of Palazzo Spini Feroni. A number of famous shoe models (Ferragamo’s Creations) have been reproduced and sold in Salvatore Ferragamo’s Florence store.

2006年12月5日 薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕博物館在新居——Palazzo Spini Feroni古堡裝飾一新的地下室重新開放。重新推出眾多聞名遐邇的菲拉格慕鞋品，並在薩爾瓦托勒·菲拉格慕公司佛羅倫薩店銷售。

June 21st, 2007 Licensing agreement between Salvatore Ferragamo and Timex Group for the production and distribution of a new collection of high-end timepieces.

2007年6月21日 薩爾瓦托勒菲拉格慕與天美時（Timex）集團簽署授權協議，生產並銷售全新系列的高檔腕錶。

September 2007 A new fragrance for men, F by Ferragamo, is launched.

2007年9月 菲爾格慕F系列（F by Ferragamo）男士香水全新上市。

March 2008 80th anniversary event.

2008年3月 80週年紀念慶典

April 2008 The new timepieces collection will be launched at Baselworld, the world’s most prestigious watch and jewellery fair.

2008年4月 新款腕錶系列將在全球最富盛名的鐘錶珠寶展覽會——巴塞爾世界（Baselworld）全新登場。